Understanding your homecare: Moisturisers

Scientific study has conducted clinical trials to identify and refine effective anti-ageing active ingredients.

A basic framework of understanding regarding the goal, purpose, and mechanism of action within cosmeceutical active ingredients serves as a guide to selecting suitable products.

The following article addresses cellular dehydration and the different ways in which a moisturiser can be designed.

What happens to a Skin Cell when it is dehydrated?

Water forms an essential part of the body and constitutes half of us – quite literally!

It is stored both within cells (intracellular) and without (extracellular). Complex internal processes work to regulate the water within cells and their environment and cells can ‘donate’ water to extracellular compartments when required – in part of a wonderful process of Homeostasis. 

Dehydration puts cells at risk. When it occurs, it can disrupt cellular function and distort the cell structure. Aesthetically speaking extracellular dehydration will create sallow, dull skin. Intracellular dehydration will impair cellular function affecting skin structures such as Collagen and Elastin, and healing capabilities – this is likely to result in premature cellular senescence and impeded cellular turnover.

Science within Moisturisers

Moisturising ingredients is an over-arching term used to describe emollients, humectants, oils, and ingredients that seal in existing moisture (known as occlusive).

When exploring homecare; it is vital to look beyond marketing terms which can be unclear. Focus on distinguishing what actions the main or active ingredients are performing. These generally tall into two categories:

1. The act of attracting &/ supplying hydration – This occurs when ingredients which work as humectants are employed to absorb water from the environment or your skin and keep it there. These include Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid.
2. The sealing of the skin to prevent moisture loss – This occurs when oil-based or occlusive agents are utilized. These ‘seal’ moisture on the surface of the skin. They may create a feeling of smoother skin though preventing the escape of water from within the dermis. These include mineral oils, emollients, plant oils, and petroleum-based ingredients.

What are Moisturising Skincare Creams made of:

• Common occlusive ingredients include: Plant Oils or Petroleum such as Petroleum Jelly, Jojoba oil, Shea Butter, Coconut Oil and more.
• Common hydrating ingredients include: Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe Vera, Glycerin, and more.

How best to moisturise the Skin?

This is a difficult question as it depends on various individualized skin qualities, skin conditions, skin sensitivities, and anti-ageing priorities. While both of the aforementioned methods may create softer, less-irritated or dried-out skin; there remains differences of which one ought to be aware.

Skin that suffers from flakiness and constant dryness may battle to retain moisture and as such helping to ‘seal’ existing moisture ‘in’ – may be a key approach. Consistently oily skin may appreciate water-based moisturising ingredients.

Skin that is ageing and/or suffering from moisture loss from environmental factors (think sun, holiday indulgences, dehydration) will benefit from the reintroduction of moisture using humectants. *Our January 2021 Special is designed to detox the skin from the indulgent holiday lifestyle and offer it the hydration and nutrients required to re-establish optimum cellular functioning – for a direct route to the Skin Detox Special, please click here.

How to treat Dehydration Skin Damage

Reset Skin Hydration!

Often a holistic approach to creating lasting healthy and beautifully textured skin will incorporate both approaches to optimizing moisture within the dermal matrix. In many instances, professional treatments may be recommended to ‘reset’ skin hydration.

By both replenishing hydration from within (think IV Hydration Treatments) as well as boosting the skin barriers capabilities to hold and retain moisture; ideal skin hydration can be achieved. Correct hydration within the dermal matrix layers will provide instant rejuvenating aesthetic affects.

What to look for in a Moisturiser?

How to reap the skin benefits of your product investment

The best homecare products for skin hydration offer scientifically formulated optimal concentrations of actively hydrating ingredients. Powerful ingredients such as Hyaluronic Acid are susceptible to contamination and this must be taken into account! Look for the following indicators to ensure that your skin will reap the benefits of your product investment:

• Proper packaging: resists UV degradation and introduction of air and bacteria.
• Stabilized Gentle Formulations: Reputable brands spend years to create recipes which allow for active ingredients to retain integrity while remaining gentle on skin of every type.
• Concentration Levels: More is not always better! While high levels of HA can be beneficial, certain actives such as Retinol (Form of Vitamin A) or Ascorbic Acid (Form of Vitamin C) must be carefully controlled so as to not to disturb dermal equilibriums.
• No Nasty Extras: The preservation of ingredients is vital, but the unnecessary addition of extras is not always helpful. Keep an eye on added colourants, fragrances, and more which could irritate sensitive skin.
• Quality Ingredients: Quality absolutely counts when it comes to Homecare vs Cosmeceuticals. Certain ingredients cost more than others and for good reasons. Yes, it is possible to buy a big jar of Petroleum Jelly for not that much – but do not expect quality results from cheap products.
• Doctor Approved: Aesthetic Doctors depend on Client Satisfaction for their bread and butter. They understand skin and they understand active ingredients; recommending only what meets strident medical and aesthetic guidelines. Seeking expert assistance will result in fewer products which perform better than expected.

Shop with Confidence

The beauty of shopping for personal anti-ageing and skin nurturing cosmeceuticals at SAI Online – is the complete confidence you can enjoy with any product you purchase. Every single product chosen to feature in our online store has Dr Clark’s seal of approval.

Products available have undergone extensive research, design, and quality control checks. They are presented in degradation-proof, integrity-preserving packaging to ensure that their superb formulations retain their strength from shelf to skin. Select with peace of mind that your purchasing power is providing potent Doctor-approved anti-ageing relief and prevention.

Not sure where to start? Contact our Aestheticians for individualized attention and assistance in creating a homecare regime that targets concerns and creates the results that may have illuded you thus far.

Click here for SAI’s Contact Page or give us a call on 011 886 6113 / 060 718 2178.

Category: News